If you have dry eyes, blepharitis or dermatoses like rosacea or eczema though, proceed with caution, says Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin.
What is the process?
Avoid mascara for two days prior to your appointment as it can leave behind a residue that prevents the lifting lotion from adhering to your lashes. On the day, Teresa recommends arriving make-up free and avoiding oily products on your lashes and around your eyes. Furthermore, she says, don’t drink caffeine, which can cause twitchy eyelids, and remove any contact lenses.
Every lash lift should start with a consultation to discuss the desired results. Your lash artist will assess the growth pattern of your natural lashes and the shape of your eyes to determine the correct shape of silicone shield to lift and curl your lashes. A before picture is usually taken, too.
Once in the chair, be prepared to sit with your eyes closed for between 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes. Your lashes and surrounding skin will first be cleansed to remove any residual makeup and oil. “Any ‘wild’ lash layers that grow much higher than the main lash rows are isolated with a special glue to avoid a kink,” says Teresa.
Then the chosen curved shield is placed close to the lash line and the eyelashes are separated and stuck down over the top. “A lifting lotion is applied to break down the disulphide bonds – the strongest bonds of the hair – in order to make them more malleable and mould the lashes to the shape of the shield,” says Teresa.
Next, the lifting lotion is removed and a setting lotion applied “to rebuild the disulphide bonds and set the new curled shape into place,” adds Teresa. After around 45 minutes, the lashes are cleansed and a hydrating serum is applied to restore moisture. Finally, an after photo is taken to keep on file for future reference.
Can you have any other lash treatments done at the same time?
Teresa actually recommends having a lash tint done during the same appointment, prior to applying the hydrating serum. “A tint will darken the transparent tips of the lashes, instantly giving the appearance of more length and volume,” says Teresa. “The pH level of the lash lifting products can also lighten or warm up the hair colour, so even if you have naturally dark lashes, a tint is always recommended,” she adds.
How can a lash lift be customised to the individual?
Teresa says that a lash lift can be fully customised based on the individual’s lash thickness, direction of growth, lash layers, lash porosity, eye shape and bone structure. “The main ways to customise the lift is by using the right shape and size of shield; appropriate processing timings on each section of the lash line (the inners, middle and outer area may require different times) and specific placement of lash lift lotion based on the desired look,” she says.